There’s a group of people around the world that spend their lives training, practicing for and dreaming of a big gold pendant. This gold accessory is generally hung in a house – sometimes framed – and by any account, cannot be considered the ‘perfect’ accessory for an everyday ensemble. You can continue reading about Olympic Gold here.

More than 60 jewelry companies, including Sears, Herff Jones, and Tiffany & Co., have committed to purchase cleaner sources of gold by endorsing the Golden Rules, a set of principles for more responsible mining. These companies are calling on the mining industry, one of the world’s dirtiest, to move away from current practices that harm local communities and generate millions of tons of toxic waste.

These retailers, which represent 22 percent of the U.S. jewelry market and $14.5 billion in sales, are urging the mining industry to end practices that harm local communities, pollute drinking water, and generate millions of tons of toxic waste. The production of a single gold ring generates about 20 tons of mine waste, which can release acids and toxic pollutants.

Gold demand for jewelry represents the equivalent of 90 percent of gold mine production , making jewelry the single largest market for gold. Despite growing pressure from jewelers and consumers, the mining industry is dragging its feet on implementing the kinds of changes needed. Mining companies have yet to make measurable and verifiable progress towards applying the Golden Rules, which call for more responsible practices, including:

• respect for human rights and workers’ rights;
• free and informed consent from local communities before mining;
• staying out of protected natural areas;
• an end to dumping mine waste into rivers, streams and coastal waters;
• guaranteed payment for the costs of closing and cleaning up mines.

*EARTHWORKS and partners from around the world launched the “No Dirty Gold” campaign in 2004 to educate and motivate consumers and jewelry retailers to push the mining industry towards more responsible practices. Since then, over 60 jewelry companies have committed to switching to cleaner gold sources when available, and more than 100,000 consumers have joined the effort.

Color: Refers to the degree to which a diamond is colorless.

Diamonds are graded on a color scale which ranges from D (colorless) to Z. For settings in yellow gold warm colored diamonds (K-Z) are desirable and for settings in platinum, palladium or white gold icy winter whites (D-J) look their best. It is difficult to see the difference between two close shades of white. Therefore, colors are graded under controlled lighting conditions and are compared to a master set for accuracy. Truly colorless stones, graded D, are treasured for their rarity. Color, however, ultimately comes down to personal taste.

Carat: Refers to the standard measurement of a diamond weight.

It is important you do not confuse a gemstone’s carat with gold karats. Although the pronunciation of the two words is the same, the meaning and the writing is different. While “carat” is used when referring to a gems weight, karats are pointing to the gold purity in gold alloys. Also people often confuse carats with size even though it is actually a measure of weight.

• 1 carat = 200 milligrams
• a 0.75 carat diamond is the same as a 75-points or 3/4 carat diamond
• a 1.00 carat diamond does not cost exactly twice the price of a half-carat diamond because larger diamonds are found less frequently in nature which makes them rare.

Clarity: Refers to the clarity of a diamond.

Inclusions are natural identifying characteristics such as minerals or fractures, appearing while diamonds are formed in the earth. They may look like tiny crystals, clouds or feathers. A magnifying loupe allows jewelers to see a diamond at 10x its actual size so that inclusions are easier to see. The position of inclusions can affect the value of a diamond and the very few flawless diamonds found in nature are very valuable. Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection, known as clarity. The clarity scale, ranging from FL (Flawless) to Included (I), is based on the visibility of inclusions at a magnification of 10x.

Cut: Refers to the angles and proportions of a diamond.

Cut is very important in the evaluation of a diamond because only well-cut stones will produce the perfect luster and beauty. Physics help the experimented cutters to get the best from a rough diamond, to add light to it and to avoid the dull appearance. Based on scientific formulas, a well-cut diamond will internally reflect light from one mirror-like facet to another and disperse and reflect it through the top of the stone. This results in a display of brilliance and fire, thereby being more sought after than deep or shallow-cut diamonds.

Note: Cost and Certification are two additional but lesser known C’s that can greatly impact your search for the right diamond.

For more Jewelry Education visit our JRJewelers.com

There are some things you should consider when you want to purchase a ring. Choosing the right engagement ring is strictly a matter of personal style.

The most simple engagement ring available on the jewelry market is called a solitaire and is a setting with a single stone. There are also multi-setting stone rings, side stone rings or baguettes. It is true that the price of such a jewel is a bit higher but it the ring is more individualized.

I will explain the two main parts of a typical engagement ring:

• The band (surrounds the finger)
• The setting (which holds the diamond)

The band must be firstly have the right size. If you are not shopping for yourself and want it to be a surprise, make sure you have the right ring size. The jeweler will help you buy the best fit if you have some clues about the size (secretly “borrow” a ring from your partner and take it to the jewelers to measure it or simply draw on a piece of paper the interior of a regularly worn ring).

The second thing you have to consider when choosing the band of the engagement ring is the material. The most common choices for engagement rings are white gold, yellow gold and platinum. Not only these materials look gorgeous when crafted into jewelry but they are also quite suitable for intensive wear (strength and durability). Remember also that platinum is hypoallergenic and will not irritate the skin.

Settings are usually made out of platinum (even on a gold ring) because of platinum’s characteristics.  It is a “hard” material and is the common choice in 4 or 6 prongs rings.  When it comes to choosing the number of prongs that sustain the stone on your ring you must know that 4 prongs rings will show off more of the diamond, and 6 prongs rings will hold the diamond much more securely.

There are also types of settings that do not use prongs.  Some settings use pressure to keep the diamond in place, and others form a “channel” where the diamond is inserted.  Again, your personal sense of style should guide you in selecting the setting.

When worn daily, gold, palladium and platinum will tend to look dull. Simply soak the ring in warm water and detergent-free soap, and scrubb it gently with a soft-bristled brush.

Note: The purity of platinum is measured by a 3-digit number.   If your band is marked “950 platinum”, the band is 95% platinum alloyed with 5% palladium or iridium. Read more also about the purity of gold.

In America and Europe gold jewelry is made from gold alloy and the purity of this alloy is stated in Karats. By definition, the karat system is used to reveal the amount of pure gold found in an item.

• 24 karat (24K) gold is pure gold.
• 18 karat (18K) gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts another metal or metals, making it 75% gold.
• 14 karat (14K) gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts another metal or metals, making it 58.3% gold.
• 10 karat (10K) gold contains 10 parts gold and 14 parts another metal or metals, making it 41.7% gold. 10k gold is the minimum karat designation that can still be called gold in the US.

Karat Value Definitions:

• Karat System: A system of measurement based on 24 karats being “fine” or “pure” gold. 1 karat equals 1/24th fine gold by weight. This is the system used in the United States.
• Plumb Gold: Karat weights are usually determined with a small, fractional variance allowed. Karat gold which has no variance and is exactly the precise fractional karat weight is called “plumb” gold.
• European System: A system of measurement based on a fraction of 1,000; or the number of grams of gold in 1 kilogram of alloy.

Gold in its pure state:

• Has a melting point of 1945 degrees Fahrenheit (1063 degrees Celsius). When alloyed (chemically combined) with other base metals the melting temperature of the resulting alloy is changed. 18K yellow gold has a melting point of 1675 degrees Fahrenheit and 14K yellow gold has a melting point of about 1550 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Has a specific gravity of 19.33. It is relatively heavy compared to most metals, such as silver (SG 10.7) or iron (SG 7.8). A notable exception is platinum (SG 21.4).
• Is more malleable than any other metal and can be hammered into foil so thin that it is almost transparent.
• Has a unique ductility property allowing it to be drawn into wire so fine it can barely be seen.
• Is deep yellow in color. Its great reflectivity properties help keep its brightness and color from fading with time.
• Will not rust, tarnish or corrode. Gold jewelry recovered from ancient Egyptian tombs is in the same state as when placed there over 4000 years ago.
• Is softer than most other metals. On the Mohs scale of hardness (which is a measure of a gemstone or mineral’s resistance to scratching), gold has a hardness value of 2 to 2.5. Diamond has a value of 10. Pure gold may easily be scratched. Fortunately, gold becomes harder when alloyed with other base metals.
• Is relatively scarce and therefore expensive. It is estimated that only 125,000 tons of gold have been mined the world over since the beginning of time.
• Is able to bond with other base metals. This property gives rise to the many different colors available in modern gold alloys.